Lake Argyle is a vast body of water created, in the early 1970s, by damming the Ord River upstream of Kununurra. Its pinkish red cliffs glow as they drop into the deep sea of blue below, but there's something sterile and eerie about this landscape - unnaturally devoid of life except for the ceaseless throbbing of the frantically busy caravan park on its shores. The latter is testimony to great foresight and marketing and is an oasis for the hot and weary travellers who queue