Tales From An Ageing Gypsy
It's a salty air I'm breathing now, so different from the dry, dusty atmosphere of Kununurra. We're on the Ningaloo Coast at Coral Bay, having travelled just half way through our trip. We've left the beguiling warm, red tones of the Kimberley and Pilbara far behind, replacing them with the cool palette of the Coral Coast and Ningaloo Reef. Despite the more temperate, pleasant weather I confess that I'm finding the transition from reds to blues, from cliffs and gorges to sandy flatness , a difficult one. I sorely miss the scale and majesty of those ancient landscapes and already feel an insistent urge to return there soon. I hope i can!
Kununurra was the first Kimberley town we visited and it took us by surprise ... larger, more beautiful, more socially coherent than we'd anticipated. We spent a week exploring the area surrounding it: discovering hidden gems of aboriginal history and rock carvings in Miramar National Park; being enthralled by the towering beauty and blessed coolness of the natural rock pool at Emma Gorge; reading the history of the Ord River Scheme and being able to see it in play over 50 years on; finding out about Wunan, a progress facilitator for aborigines, sponsored by both State (WA) and Federal money but with an Indigenous board chair and members; soaking up the beauty of the Kununurra Wetlands and its prolific birdlife; watching a full moon rise in a sunset sky over the brilliantly red cliffs of Miramar National Park. Yes, we thoroughly and surprisingly enjoyed our time in Kununurra!
From there we struggled through the oppressive 38 degree heat to Wyndham, now almost a ghost town around the Port area, but with stories to tell for those with time and patience. Pixie, the owner of the brick-a-brac store in the old port area, was thirsty for company. Within moments of sitting next to her a story began to unfold; twin threads of autobiography and history. The "Chloe of the North" as she proudly dubbed herself whilst standing beneath her portrait, (which hung askew on the corrugated tin wall), had moved to the Outback as a young nurse. Tiring of the demands of that career she then became a teacher, only to find a similar outcome. "I really wasn't much good at either," she confessed baldly. "I didn't like working that hard or being told what to do". So she became a barmaid and station hand, enjoying the freedom and notoriety each brought. She was happy to end her days living in a shack at the old port, opening her shop a few days a week and living on cigarettes and memories.
A visit to the tiny but interesting Afghan cemetery and the stunning Five Rivers Lookout was all there was time for before moving on.
Fitzroy Crossing was a long drive of nearly 700 kms, via Halls Creek. The latter was proof again of Wuhan and its success. As in Kununurra the aborigines of Halls Creek were proud, interactive individuals who, when passing, greeted us with a social nod or smile and a discerning gaze. This even extended to the younger children, who gave us a high five as they passed or encouraged us (with a big, flashy smile) to "have a good day!”. And we found the same in Fitzroy Crossing. Highly motivated, capable people of every age engaged in a variety of jobs: the local IGA was owned and mainly staffed by aborigines plus there were 3 impressive art/textile galleries showcasing the beautiful art work of aboriginal women from that area.
Fitzroy was also a turning point in the trip for Al: he rediscovered his love of geology. And that was thanks to Geike Gorge and its fossils. We'd decided against the boat trip and opted for the self guided free gorge walk instead. I lost him within moments of arrival as he darted ahead, mumbling and totally absorbed as he plucked rocks from their resting place of centuries, turning and closely examining them, in this his first encounter of a Devonian Reef. Excitement peaked when he found several fossilised sea snails in rocks which were 360 million years old! On returning to the ranger office he shared his glee and accompanying photos with them while I sat, slightly amused, recalling a time when this level of animation and enthusiasm about geology had elicited a response from our young kids: "Here he goes again!" However the Rangers were so impressed with his find and knowledge that they gave us a free boat trip as a thank you! Here we go again indeed!! So we saw the gorge once more, but this time from the water, with the late afternoon sun slanting across its famous, pock marked limestone eastern face. Just beautiful.
From Fitzroy we moved to Derby for an overnight stop, wanting to see the famous circular wharf. Well that was a misnomer ... not so much circular as slightly curved, though it was on extremely high piers to allow for the massive 13m tides. And Derby also gave us an introduction to Wanjina Art ... quite dramatic and very different from the desert style of dot painting. But Broome and its glorious colours were calling so we didn't linger in Derby.
The Broome area was where we'd planned a lengthy stop of two weeks. We enjoyed the prospect of many days without driving, and Cable Beach to Town was only 8 kms so our bikes became our main mode of transport. The beauty of Broome is undeniable, its firm white sand and pale aqua waters contrasting sharply with the bright orange/red of its soil.
However it's also a tourist town, where most things are highly priced and where value for money is rarely delivered. But if you can avoid the myriad of temptations to "purchase", "indulge", "experience", "spoil", then you can discover the Under Belly of Broome: the suburban reality of a close, laid back, at times even alternative community where people are genuine and unhurried, where there is a real enthusiasm for life and a variety of successful ways in which to live it. And with time you can also search out and enjoy the fascinating history of Broome. On a searingly hot morning we walked its streets, following the Jetty to Jetty history trail of 5 kms along the old waterfront and finishing for a late lunch at the famous (air-conditioned) Matsos Brewery! Ah, some things are worth paying for!
Broome had many more delights to share with us: an artist who'd painted an amazing 18m landscape of the Bungle Bungles and had it acquisitioned for Parliament House only for them discover it wouldn't fit anywhere! So here it sits in wondrous splendour in an old Pealer House in Broome; our day trip to the Bird Observatory on Roebuck Bay where we were delighted by the appearance of many rare snub nosed dolphins; lipstick red sunsets and many whale sightings from the Pindan cliffs of Cape Leveque; the astoundingly weathered, wilderness coastline south of Broome; the unique experience of watching an outdoor movie at the 1918 built Sun Movie House, complete with bats and low flying, ready to land planes! Broome ... it gets under your skin!!!
So till my next instalment, lots of love.
Alan and Michele
This was Part Three of a five part series. Check out the other articles in the series too:
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